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TigerWraith

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TigerWraith last won the day on May 12

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About TigerWraith

  • Birthday May 16

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  1. So it seems Magnetic cases are becoming the norm, and I like it. Foam cases just don't work for me anymore and can sometimes end up causing problems. So what to do. A few months ago I watched a video by Dunan Rhodes (yes the two thin coats guy) and he showed what he uses. 4L and 9L storage boxes from Really Useful box company. I found some at Office Depot and I loved them. This does a couple of things for me. One, it makes storage of my minis easy because everything can stack on top of each other. I can see what it is that is in the box. It also keeps dust and my cats away from my minis. I also have some storage boxes that I had found at Walmart/Sam's Club. These are about the same size as the Really Useful boxes but they are different.. So look around you may be surprised at what you can find. Duncan used magnetic sheets and I will be as well as I do have some, but I wanted something that would hold a bit more as I do have some metal minis. So I found some 24 in. x 36 in. Galvanized Steel Flat Sheet at Lowes, Home Depot has some too. I used a pair of metal cutting scissors and I cut the steel down to the sizes I needed for my boxes. Once the metal was cut to size (watch out cut metal is sharp) I used 150 grit sandpaper to sand one side of the metal. This was done so I could spray paint it. I used Flat black, then went over the black with some matte varnish. You can use super glue to attach the metal to the box, but any twisting of the box and the bond will break. So I used Mounting strips from Scotch mine said they could hold 30 lbs. I think Scotch has some 12 lb as well. (If you do use CA Glue and the magnetic sheets, leave your lid off for a day or you will end up with a white power on the inside, and do not store any minis while the CA glue is curing). The mounting strips were used as I would not need to wait for any glue to cure. Once you are at this point you just need a way to secure your minis to the bottom. There are a couple of ways to go about it. You can use rare earth magnets in the bottom of your minis if the base will allow you to glue one there. Litko also has magnets you can stick to the bottom(of flexible steel if you use the magnetic sheets) and the cost of these are very reasonable. After you have done this step then you are ready to go. List of materials needed: 4L Document Storage Box (Link to really useful but there are other places with these look for A4 Document Storage Box) https://www.reallyusefulproducts.co.uk/usa/html/onlineshop/rub/b04_0litreUS.php 9L Storage Box https://www.reallyusefulproducts.co.uk/usa/html/onlineshop/rub/b09_0litreUS.php 24 in. x 36 in. Galvanized Steel Flat Sheet https://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-24-in-x-36-in-Galvanized-Steel-Flat-Sheet-GFS24X361P/202191776?fbclid=IwAR03eS7B6jFPAjiz0PdacqsUPv1rNkVATDJVkKYAZrfwKaxTkqJTl-wV42U Metal cutting snips https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wiss-9-3-4-in-Compound-Action-Straight-Cut-Aviation-Snips-M3RS/100060795 Measuring tool and Square are very useful especially if they fit in the box. Mounting Strips https://www.scotchbrand.com/3M/en_US/scotch-brand/products/catalog/~/Scotch-Mount-Extreme-Double-Sided-Mounting-Strips/?N=4335+3292126606+3294529207&rt=rud Rare earth magnets or add on magnets from Litko https://litko.net/collections/miniature-bases-and-base-bottoms?pf_t_material=basematerial%3AMagnet%3A+0.030+inch&pf_t_shape=baseshape%3AHexagonal&pf_t_size=basesize%3A40mm Or Flexible Sheets from Litko if you used the Magnetic Sheets on the bottom of your box. https://litko.net/collections/miniature-bases-and-base-bottoms?pf_t_material=basematerial%3AFlexible+Steel%3A+0.025+inch&pf_t_shape=baseshape%3AHexagonal&pf_t_size=basesize%3A40mm If you have any questions, or suggestions let me know. Thanks
  2. Start of my Malvernis unit getting some color. Still trying to flush out the scheme.
  3. Watch what you use for primer on the KS1, 2 and 3 figures. Any spray that has more than 50% acetone in it will cause the models to become tacky to touch no matter if you wash or don't wash before you prime. If you do not know look for the MSDS sheets of the paint you want to use for primer. Rust-oleum puts 25-50 % acetone in their sprays. So guess what that means. You can buy 2 cans of the same paint and if one has 28% acetone it will work great on the CAV models, but if you get one that is closer to 50% or maybe just a little over your going to have a model that even if it stays out in the sun all day will be tacky. I primed a couple of models in Rust-oleum Camo Sand and they stayed out for 2 hrs. Were tacky to the touch. I let them sit in the house for 2 months and were still tacky to the touch. When I striped the primer off the tackiness went away. A favorite to use is Tamiya Surface Primer. It only has 1-5% acetone in it. This is why it works so well. Army Painter is another that people like, it also has less than 50% acetone in its cans. Vallejo Hobby Sprays appear to have no Acetone in them. GW Sprays - some are over 50% some are under, but you have to email GW to get the MSDS sheets. So best advice is either get the msds of the paint you want to use, or test the spray on any extra sprue, or the underside of the part that goes into the included base.. If you do end up with a tacky model you can always use testors dullcoat to help take that away.. If you have any questions let me know. I've not tested the DualCast yet. I tend to use the Tamiya Colors Acrylics as my primer/base coat as its an alcohol based acrylic and adheres to the plastic just fine.
  4. That would be me. Funny it hasn't let me know that people were posting.
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